The last time we went to the Gold Coast I came home with a smudge on my photos I could not remove.

I’d been out taking pictures of the surfers at Coolangatta.


All of a sudden, up popped a couple of spots.


I took the camera back to the apartment and using the cleaning kit did the best I could but was left with some smudges.

The camera repair guy said inside my camera was rather grubby but I’ve got it back now good as new.

About fluidicthought

Random thoughts put out there to stimulate the development and growth of new thoughts.
This entry was posted in Australia, Photography, Random, Surfing and tagged , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

9 Responses to De-smudged

  1. disperser says:

    I’ve been cleaning my own sensor for years, but it’s not for everyone. I use Eclipse fluid and the Sensor Swabs mentioned in this article.

    It is annoying as heck to be working on a photo and have to adjust/fix those dark splotches. Glad you were able to solve the problem.

    If I had a camera place I could trust, I would probably use them. I trust Nikon to do the job, but that requires being without the camera for a while.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Thanks for the link. A maintenance clean cost me $60 AUD . (Maybe $45 USD) I dropped it in at 4pm and was ready for pick up 7am next day.


    • disperser says:

      I should also mention my usual hints for minimizing dust getting on the sensor. The obvious one is to not change lenses in a dust storm, but beyond that, try and face away from any breeze or wind.

      Minimize the time the camera body is without a lens (have the lens you want to put on ready to swap in, with the end-cap off).

      If you can, hold the camera with the opening pointing downward. Unless it’s windy, it minimizes dust or other particles falling into the open camera (stuff seldom falls up). I take this opportunity to use the rocket blaster to blow some air in there. Any loose dust should either fall out or be blown out as long as the opening points down.

      People worry about the camera, but some of the dust likely comes in with the lens itself. While it’s not advisable to use a power blower (compressed air can) into the camera (it can damage the curtain mechanism) lenses are pretty durable so before putting it on, give the part that hooks onto the camera a good blast of air. There are compressed CO2 dispensers small enough to carry around, but the hand bellow (like the Rocket Blaster) also works well (it’s always in my bag).

      This next hint is one people forget . . . camera bags get dusty. Try to get into the habit of giving the inside of your camera bag a good vacuuming once in a while, especially after traveling or a long day of shooting out in the field (field are not dust-free).

      Last but not least, regularly check for dust. Follow any of the directions on various sites; I usually take a picture of an even surface like a wall or a clear sky and then heavily edit a photo (high clarity, sharpening, etc) to bring out those dark spots. If you’ve ever edited a photo only to have the spots show up, save those settings (and maybe crank them up) and use that preset to process the photo of the sky or wall.

      The reason to regularly check is that newly-deposited dust particles are easier to get off the sensor. After they have been on there a while and the sensor has cycled from room temperature to hot a number of times (sensors get hot and “bake” the dust onto the surface) the dust particles are a lot more difficult to get off.

      Anyway, you probably know all this, but some readers might not. Or, if they all do, I just wasted my and everyone else’s time. Oh, well . . . it’s what I do.

      Liked by 1 person

  2. Sartenada says:

    Cool surf photos. I took some from Las Palmas, Spain.

    Have a wonderful day!

    Liked by 1 person

  3. Thank goodness you got that problem ‘cleared up’

    Liked by 1 person

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